Sony Trinitron FV310 CRT

It’s been a long journey but I think I’m finally at the end. It all started in 2014 when I was in a serious gaming rut. I was bored of micro transactions and online passes. I was tired of DLC being shoved down my throat and I was tired of all the hand holding in modern gaming. On a whim I bought Shovel Knight for the Wii U the day it came out and it forever changed gaming for me. I realized I wasn’t bored of gaming, I was just bored of today’s games. Shovel Knight sent me down the retro gaming rabbit hole and I haven’t looked back.


What’s old is new again

Ever since Shovel Knight hooked me on retro gaming I’ve been searching for the ideal way to play them. Once I decided I wanted to play the original games on the original hardware I quickly realized how bad they looked on my modern LCD. Switching everything over to RGB helped as did purchasing a DVDO EDGE up scaler and building my own DIY scan line generator but the input delay caused by all the processing was still a bummer. I’ve always been a competitive fighting game player so input delay is something I just can’t deal with.

I quickly grabbed a mid range Sony Trinitron (27fs120) off Kijiji ( Canadian Craigslist) and was quite happy with it although I was bummed it didn’t support 480p. This led me to purchasing one of the giant behemoth HD Trinitrons that supported 720p/1080i and even had an HDMI input!! Unfortunately this TV was terrible. It up scaled everything to 1080i which meant no more 240p scanlines and it had so much post processing going on it even had a ton of input delay…on a CRT… This led to me using a VGA monitor for 480p content and sticking with SD CRT’s for 240p content.

Eventually this led me to finding several PVM monitors and eventually a BVM 1911. The BVM looks better then any consumer TV ever will but there’s still a big problem with it. It’s a 20″ monitor. The part of retro gaming that appeals to me most is the couch coop and having 4 grown men crowd around a 20″ monitor just isn’t a lot of fun. For this reason I’ve always kept my 27fsf120 TV hooked up for when friends are over. If only I could find a large TV that had the picture of a BVM…


Hail to the king!

The search is over. I’ve finally found the grand daddy consumer CRT for 240p, the Sony Trinitron fv310 series. I found a 32fv310 which is the 32″ model. The front number represents the screen size, the letters represent the model and the final 3 digits represent the sub model. The 310 series is special in particular because it uses a High Voltage Regulator that helps eliminate bloom, color bleed and picture distortion. Because of this the TV has a more professional yet dry picture much like the Sony PVM/BVM line of professional monitors. There are people who prefer the more “bloomy” look of a traditional CRT and they should look at getting the Sony FV300 series. The 300 series has everything the 310 does except it DOES NOT have the High Voltage Regulator. I prefer the cleaner look so I’m going to focus on the 310 only.


Enough fluff, lets see some scanlines!


I think its safe to say that if you are looking for a CRT you’re a fan of scanlines. The 310, by far, has the most noticeable scanlines of any consumer TV I’ve ever seen. Take a look!

These photos were taken on a Galaxy S7. The clarity is decent but the colors do come off a little washed out. In person the TV is VIBRANT trust me!





There’s two opinions on scanlines. Some like them as noticeable/thick as possible and others prefer them to be closer to what we experienced as a kid on our home TV or at the arcade. I stand somewhere in the middle and to me the 310 lands right where I want it to. The scanlines aren’t as thick as a 1000 line BVM but they are far more noticeable then my fs120 or any other consumer TV that I’ve seen.


Tips and Tweaks


The FV310 I found happens to have excellent geometry, linearity and color. There is some slight bowing but the picture below greatly exaggerates it. In use its absolutely fine.

Here’s my settings in the regular menu:

  • Picture mode is set to PRO
  • Color temperature is set to neutral
  • ClearEdge VM is set to OFF
  • DynaBlack is set to HIGH (more on this below)
  • Brightness should be kept as low as possible. Bring up picture instead

The picture mode and color temperature are really your choice. Whatever is most pleasing to your eyes is the setting you should use.

ClearEdge VM is post processing that smooths the edges of the picture and is something you absolutely don’t want turned on.

DynaBlack increases the black levels of the TV with the unfortunate side effect of drastically increasing  sharpness. In the service menu we can manually turn off the sharpness part of this setting so we can get deep blacks without the sharpness! If you aren’t the type to tinker with service menus you should set this to low or OFF.

Fortunately I only had to make a few tweaks in the service menu. To access the service menu and for a ton of info related to it here’s an excellent thread.


Sony Trinitrons are known for having very bright reds. Fortunately the 310 series allows us to turn this OFF and gets rid of the excessive reds. If you find the set to have a reddish hue you should turn this off.


This helps reduce shake when viewing an interlace picture. Set this to the number that gives you the most steady picture.


This is the sub sharpness control and setting this to max will allow you to turn the sharpness setting in the normal menu all the way off. To me, this creates a nice crisp image without the diminishing effects of too much sharpness.

SSHR is for RF input

SSHV is for Composite input

SSP4 is for Component input


These are the sharpness settings related to the DynaBlack setting in the regular menu. Turning all of these to their lowest setting gets rid of the aweful sharpness added by the DynaBlack setting.


This is the sub brightness setting. This provides a more balanced brightness across all objects on the screen and should be set near max. It also allows us to keep the normal brightness setting as low as possible to avoid washing out the picture.



I have spent a lot of time scouring the internet trying to find info on these TV’s and there’s really not much out there. It’s a mixed bag of forum posts that are tedious to wade through so I decided to throw it all in one place. I hope this article/guide has proved helpful and I may update it in the future with pictures of other games and maybe a comparison with my BVM .

Here’s a video of it in action so you can see the fs310 is good for more then bull shots! Make sure to watch it in 1080p!






17 thoughts on “Sony Trinitron FV310 CRT

  1. Hi. I really appreciate the article.

    Ive been looking to buy this tv. But i heard that this model fv300 and fv310 have flickering in 480i content such as 3d ps2 games in particular.

    Have you come across any of these issues?


    1. Thanks! I’m glad you liked it. All CRTs have flicker with interlaced content but some are worse then others. The 310 has worse flicker then my BVMs but seems on par with previous consumer CRTs I’ve owned.


  2. I’ve got a fv310 with some geometry distortion in the middle of the screen. Most noticeable with side scrolling games, the screen bows out in the middle. I tried to correct in the service menu but couldn’t seems to fix it. from what I’ve read you need to place magnets around the yolk to realign things. Any idea if this is possible? Not many crt repair experts around anymore . It’s too bad as the rest of the picture is amazing.
    Thanks for the article.


  3. Hey you should try setting INTL to 2 or 3 instead of 0 which is default. It blends together the alternate scanlines when you’re in 480i so it reduces flicker and makes it look like 240p. They say 480i flicker is more noticeable on our KVFV310s when compared to other TVs because of how noticeable the scanlines are in the first place.

    Have you read somewhere that the sub brightness, sub sharpness, etc. are actually different than the controls in the main menu? I thought they just adjusted the range the main menu controlled.

    Also what are your SCON/contrast settings?



  4. Picture looks great, I just hate how flat screen crts are wavy when moving from left to right. You can def see it even in this high end model. For this reason I prefer bubble screen crts as it tends to not happen.


    1. Sry I thought my first comment didn’t post n that’s why there’s 2. The image quality is definitely superb enough that I would overlook the flat screen geometry. That’s if I ever find one myself lol.


      1. It’s alot less noticable when looking at the screen from head on but it’s definitely a downside of flat screen crts. One day I’ll look into seeing if I can correct it


    1. It’s a very real problem. I have a 800TVL D series and the geometry is perfectly. Unfortunately the picture isn’t even in the same league as the 310


    2. Karl, just so you know this business about center geometry and waviness when running left and right exists on all of these including the pro monitors such as the BVM and PVM’s. On all BVM’s I tested this happened on the left side of the screen where it looked like the image was running over a little hill of sorts, and on the PVM I tested it was happening on the upper part and was noticeable when scrolling up or down. It’s part of the deal when you go with a crt, and unfortunately there’s nothing you can do even internally to fix it. You’re not supposed to focus on this when playing. If dead center spot on perfect geometry is a must then you shouldn’t be on CRT’s to be honest. It’s already hard enough to get perfect geometry around the corners and decent convergence (this does require opening up the set and you need to use permalloy strips, it’s a very delicate work), but then also hoping for spot on center geometry just is asking for too much with this tech.

      Personally I love this set. Both the FV300 and FV310 are absolute stunners for gaming, I even favor them over the BVMF1U.


  5. I finally found a KV 27FV310 and couldn’t be happier. I was previously using an old 27FS13 and noticed a large improvement. Thanks for taking the time to organize this information.


  6. Hi, thanks for this amazing guide. I was not able to find SSP4 in the service menu. I have the 27-inch model. Is it only available in your 32-inch model perhaps? Thanks!


  7. This was a great read and just recently picked up one of these sets as well (came with the stand too!) and made some tweaks in the service menu. Mine has more geometry issues than yours, which I hear is fairly common on these sets but I got it to a tolerable level. calibrated the picture and the colors are actually perfect after using my avia dvd, very impressed! I changed some of my settings compared to yours – adjusted the cutoff and drv of the colors after turning off axnt, and turned off dynablack and set the sharpness of the sshr, sshv down to about 10. I noticed some bleeding of black and artificial edge sharpness when viewing dreamcast through rgb. Overall I have to say its an amazing picture!

    I do have one question for you, and I hope you will be able to give me your advice/expertise: What do you recommend for INTL setting? I’m trying to find the best compromise. What is the difference between 0 and 1 for it? I can’t tell. I find these look the best but i get too much shifting with motion during some interlaced titles like virtua fighter 2 saturn. setting it to 2 gets rid of the issue I mention but causes more flicker and makes text harder to read. Any advice is appreciated!


    1. Thanks! Every set will be different depending on hours/wear so I always love seeing what settings you guys have found and changed. Unforunately I’m no expert so I can’t give you a definitive answer on the INTL setting. I don’t play alot of interlaced content but I ran into the same issues as you did. I tend to tweak it on a per game basis and set it to what I think looks best for the content.


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